Tourists chase flying camels into outback's red heart

By Robyn Wuth
Camel races
Queensland's outback camel trail is roaring into life, luring tourists off the beaten track. -PR IMAGE

They come for the chaos as much as the race. 

On a strip of red dirt carved out of scrub, long‑lashed camels snort at the barriers before they lurch into a lopsided gallop that somehow passes 45 kilometres an hour.

Caravans and four-wheel drives ring the track like a temporary city as the population explodes.

Kids clamber onto ute trays for a better view, punters clutch betting tickets, and strangers become lifelong mates over ice-cold beers as Queensland's month-long outback camel trail roars into life.

The Desert Champions Way: Outback Camel Trail links four race events across Queensland's western outback, cutting through classic Channel Country and sprawling desert landscapes. 

It starts in Jundah on the Thomson River, then heads to the frontier town of Birdsville on the edge of the Simpson Desert, continues north through Bedourie before reaching Boulia and finishing in Winton, in the heart of dinosaur and Waltzing Matilda country.

Among the crowd are travellers who've traded the everyday grind for red dust and racing camels, turning their holidays into rolling adventures across the heart of the country.

For the Gold Coast's Stephanie Zielke, this trip is also a goodbye.

"This trip, this particular trip, is in memory of my dad," she said at the first Jundah event.

"He passed away a couple of months ago, terminal cancer, and he was a real big supporter of outback travel and support. So this trip is for him."

She and partner Dean Keppie have hauled their van thousands of kilometres to follow the trail, but it's not their first run west.

"We had a big trip last year up to Winton, when they had the 150th festival, and it was fantastic," Ms Zielke said.

"We loved it, and we thought, OK, what's our next big trip? It's this one.

"It has had a couple of detours to get here, but it's worth it."

Out on the track are the gangly camels - half awkward, half athlete. 

With no reins in their mouths, they race on instinct; jockeys holding on for dear life, without a bridle to steer.

They reckon a good camel can hit highway speeds; a stubborn one can sit down and refuse to budge.

Veteran racers with names including Polished Copper and Geoffrey draw cheers like champion thoroughbreds on exactly the kind of out‑of‑the‑ordinary adventure the Gold Coast couple had in mind.

"It's one of the rare opportunities that you get where you have the time to be able to do a trip like this," Mr Keppie said. 

"We love getting out into the bush, out into the outback, and supporting the local people, and it's just a great way to see the country."

For the small towns that host the circuit, the flying humps are serious business. 

After floods and quiet tourist seasons, an event weekend can swell the population, keeping pubs and servos busy for days.

"I think events like this are about getting the community together to have a good time, to raise some money for some local causes and to give the people something to do," Mr Keppie said.

"I love the freedom. I love to meet new people. I love to stop into the little country pubs and, you know, have a couple of beers, have a yarn, meet the locals.

"It's always great to get out and meet new people in far‑off places, and they really appreciate it."

Ms Zielke is convinced the experience should be on every bucket list. 

"It's fun," she said.

"Do it while you're young; don't wait until you're older. Do it now."